Sunday, April 17, 2011

Last day in Rome

And she put on a beautiful day for us today. Sunny but crisp and not too much haze.

We started the day by walking to the capitoline hill museums which are behind the victor Emmanuel monument for thi=ose of you who know Rome. this is where many lof the treasures of ancient and renaissance Rome are currently housed. We met our guide Roberta again and she was excited to show us these treasures especially as there was an extra display of sculpted portraits available as well.


After more lines we were admitted. Unfortunately, because of the extra exhibition they were very touchy about photographs but we did manage to see a wide variety of sculptures of verious age and status includine one that is a self portrait by Michaelangelo himself.
When we had just about had enough we retired to the roof cafeteria and had  one of the best lunches ever. My caprese salad was simple yet very satisfying but any food would be gorgeous in these surroundings looking across the rooflines of Rome. A lovely way to remember the city.



Later that day we went in search of Europes oldest coffee shop for Maria whose husband owns a coffee shop. We found it in a little piazza hiding behind the pantheon and sat drinking espresso right on the road and taking our chances with the Roman traffic as always.



These two buildings are built opposite each other with the residence of the mayor in between. I have to say Clover Moore may be a bit jealous. The buildings and courtyard and approaches were designed by Michaelangelo so naturally they are quite beautiful.
Just opposite the square is the apartment building of one of Rome's most glamorous citizens, Sophia Loren.


Rome Day 2. The Vatican

This was the day set aside for the Vatican. We set off early to get there using the Roman Metro. Not as complex as the Parisian Metro it proved easy to navigate but we were travelling at peak hour and it was a bit scary. Teying to get all 30 of us ontl the same train amd off at the same station wasa challenge but we achieved it with a lot of pushing and shoving to get on. All of the trains are crowded and you just had to push to get one anyway. Roman pedestrians are a bit like the drivers. Anarchy rules, no giving way but take your place or else! So we did.
Once off the Metro we walked up the the vatican museum entrance. With 30 minutes unr=til opening time the lines were aleady around two city corners. We wre very grateful for a letter of intraduction from Brother Xavier from Marist college that got us to the front of the booked tour line. Once in however there are still lines to get through security before we get to enter.
Finally we enter a courtyrad of magnificent proportions

Now everyone is really there for the Sistine Chapel but the is no fast track to that place. Y9ou have to walk through multiple different collections to get to the sistine. I guess this is a method of crowd control. Unfortunately we did not have a guide today and a lot of it was lost on me. There is obviously a history of popes collecting many Roman and pagan treasures to be housed in the Vatican and many of these are on display. Some of them include a hall of statues
And magnificent art works made of inlaid marble
And rooms and rooms of tapestries. I wish I knew more about them. I probably would have appreciated them better but the exquisite attention to detail in the work was very inspiring. We have to respect the talent of the people who produced these works of art.
Finally we reached the Sistine Chapel. Now, dear reader, I did not take photos. Instead I put in my head phones and listened to a podcast guide to the chapel that I had previously downloaded. I enjoyed every one of the 40 minutes in this overwhelming room whilst the commentator decoded what I was seeing. It was gratifying to see female figures depicted as sages and important forseers of the arrival of Christ as these days our church seems to forget the role that women have played. ( there ends the sermon). It is quite garishly colourful and every millimeter is covered in pigment. Quite over the top but beautiful and clever. And worth the hour it took to get there.
Our exit was down this beautiful staircase which I have seen photos of but didnt realise what it was.
After that we had lunch and it was interesting to sit with a Presbyterian woman from the UK who was struggling with how ornate everything was because her experience of sacred space is much more spare and she had difficulty not being offended by the extravagance her in the Vatican. We talked about how the artisans would not have been able to make a living without the sponsorship of the church or the rich people buying indulgences. It was an interesting exercise seeing things from another's point of view.
After lunch we headed to St Peter's Basilica. There was a lot of bunting and scaffolding around as all was in preparation for the beatification of Pope John Paul 2 To be held this weekend. The square is amazing. Apparently it can hold 60,000 people standing.
This is looking towards where the pope will say Mass on the weekend.
And this is roughly the view he will see as he makes the pronouncement.
Then we entered the Sistine Chapel. Again no photos do it justice. We only had 30 minutes and I could have spent half a day in this one building. The second biggest basilica in the world it was quite overwhelming. I didn’t see everything but I did see the Pieta which is as beautiful as the photos show and I did walk up to the tomb of St Peter. It was quite exhausting and we were glad to set off home for a bit of a rest.
Later that night we went back to the trevi fountain for a second visit. Michael wanted to throw his coin into the fountain correctly ( over the L shoulder with the R hand ). We were glad we went back because it was a little less crowded and we were more relaxed. Just across from the fountain was a little shoe shop having a sale and Maria, Gina and I all came away with some very good bargains. We shared a meal at another trattoria but thefood was a little disappointing this time. Never the less it was good company in a beautiful place
Finally we walked up to the coliseum to see it at night. It was worth it as there were lights projected onto the senate house
And the colusseum looks great at night but my photo dont because I need a tripod.
We finally headed to bed after another wonderful day in this beautiful city.

Friday, April 15, 2011

Rome day one

Am absolutely exhausted but had to write and tell you I had the best day today. It was our first full day in Rome. I cant believe this city. It is so beautiful. You cant walk 10 metres without seeing something beautiful or ancient or both. And boy did we walk.
After breakfast we walked to the colosseum and then we spent 2 hours walking around the colosseum with half of Rome ( or Europe ). This week there is free entry to lots of the ancient places so Romans are also taking advantage of the prices . Our guide, A little ancient woman herself but very knowlegable showed is around before taking us the the Roman forum.

 Ancient and new Rome
  Now THAT is an amazing place. Every angle you look there is something more to see. They were great engineers and it was quite amazing to think that we were standing on stones that Julius Caesar had stood on.Mind you, the stones are a challenge. No path in Rome is flat and I think my feet are threatening to divorce me.
That was the end of our formal day and we had the afternoon free. Maria , one of the teachers and I, decided not to go to circus maximus and instead wandered towards Piazza Navarone. Up a little alley and we found a ristorante full of locals with wonderful looking food on the plates. We settled down for lunch and a carafe of house white. I had Spaghetti Vongole. The best I have ever had and now I understand why it was one of my father's favourote dishes.

Maria had braised lamb and potatoes. ( she is greek after all ). It was the bast meal of the trip so far. Michale and Gina ( another teacher ) cought up with us and they went to another plave in the [iazza for pizza and gelato. There is a gelateria at every corner here. Emily and Carina, they even had nutella flavour.
My brother advised me to follow my nose down little alleys and it was great advie. We found a tiny church of Mary Magdalene. OMG so gorgeous. Just behind a doorway really. No free standing grand buiding.
Inside the church
Just across the road was a shop with an intriguing sign. Paperie. Well I had to go in! It was a little satellite shop from one on Florence and they made their own marbled paper. ( at 18 euro a sheet. ) I bought some gorgeous printed papers and 2 sheets of hand made paper to die for. He packaged them up into a roll and I look forward to bringing them home even though they dont fit in my suitcase.


Further down that lley we foud the Pantheon. Very crowded but very beautiful. Actually awe inspiring.

Then we had to high tail it back to the hotel to meet the others and head to Mass at the Basilica Santa Maria Maggiore. then off to explore again. this time to the spanish steps. Glad I saw them . Dont need to again.

We walked down Via Borgognogna which would give Rodea drive a run for it's money. thenk goodness the shops were all closed. Prada, Vuitton, Versace, Ferrari, Bulgari, Ferragamo. Truly beautiful cltohers and shoes. By then we were running out of steam, Grabbed a bite which was disappointing and found a taxi home.
Tomorrow we have the vatican all day.

If today is anything to go by, this holiday is going to be great.

Arrival day

After 24 hours travelling we finally arrived in Rome on a beautiful sunny warm day. Our coach from the airport to the city gave a little commentary as we travelled. As we got closer to out hotel the traffic got worse and worse. Seems there was a demonstration march through the streets and our hotel was right in the thick of it.
Eventually he had to set us down but only one street away from our hotel and we got to brave the Roman traffic with our luggage. I dont know how the Romans drive. But I understand movies like the Italian job now. Those scenes where they race around paying no heed to the traffic laws or markings on the road are true. All romans drive like that. Pedestrian crossings are areas where you can corss with your life on your hands. They will not stop to let you walk but they will try to avoid you as you cross.
The Hotel turned out lovely. Our room was quite spacious on the 7th floor with a view across rooftops. Our bathroom had a bidet to Michael's delight.
The restuarant was basic but the food filling. Fine for out first night off the plane.

After we settled in we went for a walk to find the Trevi fountain. We had been warned about the hills in Rome but man are there some hills. But everywhere you looked there were beautiful buildings and little alleyways with the promise of something just around the corner. Eventually we found it. So had half of Rome but this is normal for this place. We threw in our obligatry coins so hopefully will return. I have to say it is a very beautiful fountain. It has been cleaned up and restored and deserves the attention it gets.  It was a lovely way to start our trip.

the reason for the title

Friends can surprise you with generosity. Who would have thought that a European trip would bring out the loveliness of my friends? Given , this is not s straight forward trip, I have still been overwhelmed by the good will towards me on this trip.
Last Sunday my good friend Liz organised a surprise birthday Bon Voyage breakfast. I had just finished a 25 hours shift and the Gods had not smiled on me. It was a horror shift and I was feelling a little fragile around the edges. We met at the agreed place and there were 2 more friends waiting and a helium balloon so everyone in the restaurant knew we were there for an occasion. What a lovely way to start getting me in the mood for the adventure ahead.
Later that week I had lunch with my lovely and well trvelled friend Monica. I was brainstorming about what handbag I would use. Monica took her things out of her wonderful leather backpack that is so well designed and offered it to me for my trip. After a minute hesitation I accepted. And it has turned out to the the best decision. Finally, Liz brought over a travel pillow. Not just any one but  a bright red one. My favourite colour.
So it s with these gifts that I venture on to Europe bringing my friends with me in thought and gift. What wonderful friends they are too.

Thursday, April 7, 2011

Greetings

Hopefully this will be the place I come to for sharing my first trip to Europe and any other travel that might follow. Join me for the 2 week journey and beyond.
Tomorrow I will post the explanation for the title.
See you then