Herculaneum

I woke today to a beautiful clear sky and fresh air. It was quite cool but the promise of a warm day. After breakfast we boarded our coach and took the scenic route along the coast to Herculaneum. The driver stopped for photo opportunities because he said it was one of the clearest days in recent times. Traffic was heavy again and it took over 90 minutes to get there but it was pleasant and I have adjusted to the heavy traffic.

Herculaneum was amazing. For one thing, another town exists above it as Herculaneum remained buried under 20 metres of lava for hundreds of years

The port buildings that used to face the ocean

Obviously the playground of the rich in Roman times, I was amazed at the size of the houses, not to mention the ornate decoration. It seems every floor, wall and ceiling was decorated with tiles, mosaics and frescoes as well as bronze statues, marble reliefs etc. The houses are much better preserved than Pompeii because of the effects of 23 metres of lava and you can still see decoration on the walls. The rich colours used and the intricate patterns were quite beautiful. Michaelangelo 1500 years later would have felt at home. 

detailed brickwork

inside two story home

Two story home underneath modern building in Ercolaneo

The site is much smaller but we still couldn’t see it all in the time allocated. We took the audio tour this time which was very informative and allowed us to do things at our own pace. It is amazing to realise how much the coast line has changed in 2000 years. The sea is now some kilometres away from the ruins which were actually a sea port. Makes you realise how fragile our sense of permanence really is.

detailed wall decorations and tesslated marble floor

chaging room in the public baths

The students went to Mt Vesuvius from there and Michael joined them but I decided to go with Maria and Gina to the National museum in Naples which houses the majority of the collection of art works from Pompeii and Herculaneum, Let me tell you, Naples is a scary city. The traffic is so busy and the city dirty from all the fumes. We were quite happy not to walk the streets and just to get a cab t the museum.

mosaic from Herculaneum

mosaic portrait from
Herculaneum

Once inside we were again awe inspired. Many of the frescoes and mosaics from Pompeii and Herculaneum are now housed in this museum. I would challenge anyone in the 21^st century to create mosaics as intricate as the ones foud in Herculaneum. Some of the tiles must only have been 2mm square. We saw many of the statues both bronze and marble and entered the secret room filled with erotica from all over the world. It was very tiring but a great chance to get a better appreciation of just how beautiful these cities were before the volcano.

Our train trip back to Sorrento took over an hour but would have been longer by road. Gypsies walk through the train playing music and passing the cup for donations. Many of the Italian travellers are quite stylishly dressed but few of them had smiles today. They all looked tired at the end of a long day.

Tonight, hopefully a nice meal at a trattoria close by. Last night’s meal in the hotel was abysmal so I am still to taste a good example of the napolitan style food.

Post script.

The meal was WONDERFUL.

Would highly recommend Le Pizza del Poeta.

Maria, Michael and I went together. We shared antipasti of Bruschetta made with tomatoes, buffalo Mozzarella and basil and a dish of Cuttlefish salad with Rocket and walnuts. Stunning.

You don’t need salt in Italy. The food is perfectly seasoned and many of the meals we have had have simply respected the fresh ingredients like we Aussies like to do.

Mains were pasta with Mushroom sauce for Michael, Fillet steak with mushroom sauce for Maria cooked to perfection medium rare.I had asked the waitress which dish the chef was most proud of on his menu and ordered that.It was a simple scallopine with fresh tomatoes and buffalo mozzarella and it was deserving of his pride. The best scaloppini I have ever eaten. Sides were a potato dish nd egglpant in tomato. Also delicious. We did not have room for dolci. It was all accompanied by a bottle of Santa Margarita Pinot Grigio and a large beer for Michael.